Note: The vehicle must not be moved when the cardan shaft is removed, as the hub bearing will be damaged if there is no axial pressure. If necessary, install an outer joint instead of the cardan shaft.
When replacing the propeller shaft, move the vibration damper to the new shaft. Note: On cars with a 4-cylinder engine and automatic transmission since 2/94, propeller shafts with constant velocity joints "Tripod" are installed. To remove the left propeller shaft, it is necessary to hang the engine and release its supports. The inner propeller joint can only be replaced together with the propeller shaft.
Removal
Loosen the nut securing the wheel hub to the propeller shaft.
Caution: The car must be on its wheels. Risk of accident!
Basic chassis: remove washer.
Loosen the wheel bolts and raise the vehicle.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the internal joint bolts with internal slots on the head. To do this, use a key with a replaceable socket head with external slots, for example, HAZET 990 Lg-8.
Mark the relative positions of the ball joint and the wishbone by tracing the heads of the mounting bolts with a scriber.
Basic chassis: unscrew the mounting bolts (arrows).
Positive chassis: first remove bolts "A", then bolt "B".
Separate the ball joint from the wishbone.
If you can't pull the driveshaft out manually, press it out of the wheel hub with a suitable puller. The VW workshop uses the VW-3283 puller for this.
Tilt the shock absorber strut outward and remove the drive shaft from the wheel hub bearing housing.
If the cardan shaft is being replaced, remove the vibration damper. To do this, knock out the clamping sleeve and separate the 2 halves of the damper.
Note: From 8/89 to 9/93, non-detachable dampers were installed. To remove, it is necessary to first press out the inner constant velocity cardan joint, and then the damper.
Installation
If it was removed, put the vibration damper back in place and drive in a new clamping sleeve. Note: When doing this, close the shaft so as not to damage the protective packing coating when driving in. Before installing, check the effectiveness of the adhesive tape on the inner diameter of the damper. If necessary, replace the adhesive tape or apply another adhesive. The adhesive tape prevents the possibility of axial movement of the damper along the cardan shaft.
Installation dimensions for vibration damper (all models):
Right cardan shaft: a = 521 ±1 mm; left cardan shaft (if the damper is installed): a = 264 ±1 mm.
Note: For vehicles manufactured prior to 10/88, see instructions at end of section.
Before installation, clean the driveshaft splines with gasoline to remove oil and grease, and remove all deposits from the protective coating.
Positive chassis:
Up to about 12/94: Apply liquid protective agent from VW D185400A2 to the splines as shown in the picture. The cross-section of the protective agent layer is about 3 mm.
Note: Since about 12/94 a modified wheel hub has been installed, the spline tips of which are slightly compressed. The new hub can also be installed on earlier cars. If such a hub is installed, no protective agent is required.
Insert the cardan shaft into the wheel hub and secure it with the old nut. Tighten the nut until the outer hinge axle enters the hub as far as it will go. Do not tighten the nut.
Tighten the ball joint to the wishbone with a torque of 35 Nm, making sure that the bolts are positioned in accordance with the previously applied marks.
Screw the cardan shaft to the gearbox output shaft flange.
Screw in the bolts with internal slots on the head that secure the inner joint and tighten them crosswise to a torque of 45 Nm. Do not forget to put locking washers under the 6omJ.
Positive running gear
From about 12/94 or cars with new wheel hub:
Loosen the nut securing the wheel hub to the propeller shaft.
Lubricate the contact surfaces of the new 12-sided nut with oil and tighten it as far as possible.
Lower the car. Make sure that the wheels do not touch the floor yet, otherwise the hub bearing may be damaged.
Apply the brakes (need an assistant).
tighten the 12-sided nut to a torque of 200 Nm, then release it one turn.
Tighten the 12-point nut to 50 Nm.
Mark the top of the 12-sided nut with a scriber (arrow A, Fig. No.40-006).
Place the second mark (arrow B) on the edge of the wheel hub opposite the next 12-sided nut vertex.
Note: The angle between two adjacent vertices of a 12-sided figure is 30°.
Tighten the 12-sided nut to the specified angle until the marks match.
Install the front wheel, setting it in its previous position relative to the mark on the hub, lower the car and tighten the wheel bolts in a crosswise manner to a torque of 110 Nm.
Basic chassis: unscrew the nut securing the hub to the driveshaft and install a new self-locking nut, tightening it to a torque of 265 Nm. Do not forget to install the lining washer.
View the original on this resource (vwmanual.ru)
Positive chassis up to approximately 12/94: Loosen the nut securing the hub to the propeller shaft and install a new self-locking 12-point nut. Tighten the nut to 90 Nm and turn it an additional 1/8 of a turn (45°). Caution: Tighten the handbrake. Ask an assistant to apply the foot brake. The vehicle must stand on its wheels when tightening. Risk of accident!
Install the wheel cover.
Check wheel alignment if necessary (workshop work).
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