Remove brake pads.
Check whether the pads move easily in their guides.
The guide pad must be clean and free of corrosion for a good braking effect. If the brake discs have already been run in, the inner edge of the new lining (see arrow) it is necessary to slightly cut down with a file; so that the pad is immediately fully attached to the disc
If necessary, clean the guides with a screwdriver. In doing so, do not damage the piston collar.
With floating caliper disc brake (ATE) check frame movement.
Clean guides.
To prevent subsequent rusting of the guides, lubricate the sliding surfaces with a small amount of copper grease.
Company brake note "Girling": in winter, when a lot of salt is scattered on the roads, a thick layer of rust is deposited on the collar, as a result, the lining is wedged. As a result, the pedal travel lengthens, the braking effect deteriorates.
The fixing collar of the lining must be sanded and coated with a layer of copper grease.
Additionally, drill the lining eyes with a drill, larger by 0.1-0.2 mm. Too large a hole will weaken the lug.
Check if the piston has an easy stroke.
On a floating caliper disc brake, insert an old, possibly heavily worn lining or thin piece of wood as a stop on the side where the piston is located.
In the cam disc brake, install a clamp with an intermediate wooden spacer as a stop for the piston (see section "Replacing Disc Brake Linings"), to prevent the piston from leaving the cylinder.
Clamp (3) - this is the best tool for pushing back the piston in the body (1) cam caliper disc brake. The piston is protected by a piece of wood or a small metal plate (2), which is visible in the illustration.
The assistant gently presses the pedal. Check: Is the piston moving?
If the piston does not come out, depress the brake pedal until. until the piston starts to move.
Move the piston back as indicated in the section "Replacing Disc Brake Linings".
Repeat this process until the piston moves easily.
Cover the side surfaces of the piston with a layer of ATE brake paste.
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