Electrical system faults (VW Golf 2)

Troubleshooting an electrical system can be quite a labor-intensive process and here again the principles of logical analysis apply if the operating principles are understood. The wiring of a car is exposed to adverse conditions - very high temperatures, vibration and chemicals, so the first thing to look for is loose or damaged connections and torn or frayed wires, especially where they pass through holes in the body or are damaged by vibration. All metal-bodied cars produced today have one terminal of the battery connected to the body of the car, and in almost all modern cars this is the negative terminal (-). The components of the electrical system - motors, light bulb sockets, etc. - are connected to the ground by wires or directly attached to the body. The current passes through these components and then back to the battery through the body. If the fastening of a given component is damaged, the return path of the current to the battery is not available, the network does not close and the result is poor performance. The engine or gearbox is also connected to ground via flexible copper straps bolted to the body or to the engine mount subframe. If these straps are loose or missing, problems with the starter, alternator, and ignition may occur.

If we consider the reverse current through the ground as normal, the faults in the electrical system will be caused by the incorrect functioning of its elements or insufficient current supply. Wires that are torn or cracked in the middle open the circuit. This can be verified using a wire with jaw clamps or appropriate connectors at the ends. Another way is a 12 V test lamp. which can be used to check the voltage in different parts of the wiring, and in this way our break.



If some part of the uninsulated wiring touches the body or another metal part, the current will choose the path to the battery with (low resistance, this is the so-called short circuit, which will cause the fuse to burn out, otherwise it can cause the insulation to burn out or even a fire. Therefore, if the fuse often burns out, it is necessary to find a short circuit in the circuit.

Spare parts and tool kit

If you have the list of tools provided in the section "Tools and equipment that make work easier", you are guaranteed peace of mind on the roads. With this tool, you can handle any work on the road. In addition, in case of an accident, the driver should have several additional tools. The list of tools provided below will help save time and money and free you from visits to the workshop:

• Spark plugs, clean and correctly gapped Long high tension lead with spark plug attachment to reach spark plugs located away from the ignition unit
• Distribution finger, breaker joints capacitor (where it may be necessary)
• The V-belt of the alternator 5.
• Fuel hose (about 0.6 m)
• Spare fuses
• Set of light bulbs
• Insulating tape for electrical wires, as well as tape for repairing damaged water pipes
• Soft wire stock
• Spare electrical wiring, flexible, insulated Flashlight or portable lamp (can serve as a control)
• Towing channel
• A liter of motor oil
• Clamps for rubber hoses - different diameters
• Spare fuel should be carried in a special canister to minimize leakage and damage in the event of a collision
• A first aid kit and an emergency sign must be kept in the car

When traveling abroad, it is worth having additional spare parts. Even if you cannot install them yourself, you will save time on purchasing.


The following parts are worth paying attention to:

• Clutch and throttle cables
• Head gasket
• Generator brushes
• Chamber valve
• Fuel pump
• Brake cylinder

The engine does not start

The engine does not turn when the starter is turned on

• The battery is discharged (charge, use an additional battery)
• Battery terminals are loose or corroded
• Insufficient connection between battery and body
• The engine ground wire is loose or broken
• The starter or automatic transmission wiring is loose or torn
• Automatic transmission selector in wrong position
• The ignition/starter switch is damaged
• Serious mechanical damage to the engine
• Internal failure of starter or automatic transmission

The starter turns the engine slowly

• Partially discharged battery (charge, use an extra battery)
• Battery clamps are loose or rusty Poor battery ground connection
• The wiring to the engine ground is loose
• Starter wiring is loose
• Internal failure of the starter

The starter turns without turning the engine

• The starter clutch is damaged
• The flywheel teeth are damaged or worn down
• Starter mounting bolts are loose

The engine speed is normal, but there is no ignition

• Wet or dirty high voltage wires and distributor caps
• Dirty or incorrectly installed distributor contacts
• No fuel in the tank
• Starter equipment not switched off when engine is hot
• Starter equipment not switched off when engine is cold
• Spark plugs are dirty or gapped incorrectly (remove, clean and set the gap)
• Ignition system failure
• Fuel system failure, insufficient compression pressure
• Serious mechanical damage (for example, camshaft drives)

The engine starts but does not run

• Starter equipment not included (cold engine)
• Air purge in the carburetor or in the fuel intake manifold
• Very low on fuel
• The rheostat control is damaged or there is another ignition fault

The engine stalls and does not start

• Engine stops abruptly - ignition fault
• Low voltage wires are loose or disconnected
• Wet high voltage wires or distributor head (in wet weather)
• The coil or capacitor is damaged (check the spark)
• Other ignition fault

The engine starts to run intermittently and stalls - a malfunction in the fuel system

• Empty fuel tank
• The fuel pump is damaged and the filter is dirty
• The air bleeder in the fuel tank neck is clogged (after unscrewing the plug, you can hear air being sucked into the tank)
• The carburetor needle valve is dirty
• The carburetor jets are dirty (fuel is contaminated)
• Other fuel system malfunction
• Engine stalls - other reasons

Engine overheating

• Serious mechanical damage (for example, the camshaft drive)
• The engine gets very hot
• The load light is on
• Generator and water pump drive belt is loose or broken - tighten or replace
• The load light is not on
• Lack of coolant due to external or internal leaks
• The thermostat is damaged
• Low oil level
• The brakes are stuck
• External or internal contamination of the radiator Radiator fan does not work well
• The engine water channels are blocked
• The ignition is set incorrectly or the ignition timing regulators are not working properly
• Very lean mixture

Caution: Do not add cold water to an overheated engine as this may cause a crack in the engine casing

Low engine oil pressure

• Low gauge reading or warning light on with engine running
• Low oil level or wrong oil
• The oil pressure indicator or sensor is damaged
• Engine overheating
• The oil filter is clogged or the drain valve is damaged
• The oil pump vessel is clogged
• The oil pump is worn out or the suction tube is loose
• Main bearings or connecting rod bearings are worn

Caution: Low oil pressure in engines after long periods of low speed operation (idle work) should not be a cause for concern. A sudden drop in pressure at high speed is much more serious. In each case, before considering the engine faulty, it is necessary to check the actual oil pressure.

Knocking in the engine

• Knocking noise in the engine is heard when accelerating - very early ignition
• Inappropriate fuel
• The ignition unit is damaged or worn out
• The carburetor is worn out or poorly adjusted
• Very large layer of carbon deposits in the engine

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A measured knock or crackle

• Incorrect valve clearances
• The valve timing mechanism is worn out
• The timing belt is worn out
• Cracked piston ring (ticking)

Muffled blows

• The connecting rod bearings are worn out (a regular dull knocking noise that may decrease under load)
• The main bearings are worn out (a rattling noise that may increase under load)
• Piston knock (noticeable when the engine is cold)