| Symptom | Reason(s) |
| The starter motor does not turn the engine | The battery is dead The battery has an internal defect The battery cables are loose or the ground cable is not securely attached to the body Loose or broken connections in the starter motor circuit Faulty starter motor switch or solenoid The starter brushes are badly worn, the brush wires are stuck or disconnected The switch is dirty, worn out or burnt out The starter motor armature is faulty The field windings are grounded |
| The starter motor turns the engine very slowly | The battery is in a discharged state The starter brushes are badly worn, stuck, or the brush wires are disconnected The wires in the starter motor circuit have become disconnected |
| The starter motor runs but does not crank the engine | Worn or broken gear or transmission teeth The starter motor is noisy or difficult to turn on Worn or broken gear or transmission teeth The starter motor mounting bolts are loose |
| The battery doesn't hold a charge for more than a few days | Internal battery defect The electrolyte level is too low or the electrolyte concentration is too weak due to leakage The separator plates are no longer effective The battery plates are heavily sulfated The alternator belt is slipping The battery contacts are loose or corroded The generator is not charging properly A short circuit in the lighting circuit causes the battery to drain continuously |
| The ignition indicator does not go out; the battery runs out in a few days | The alternator belt is loose and slipping, or damaged Generator is faulty |
| Failure of individual electrical appliances - possible causes: The fuel level gauge shows nothing | The fuel tank is empty The sensor cable between the tank and the device is grounded or loose The sensor housing is not grounded The sensor cable is damaged The device broke down on its own |
| The fuel gauge shows a full tank all the time | The voltage stabilizer of the device is faulty The cable between the tank and the sensor is damaged or disconnected |
| The sound signal works all the time | The horn button is grounded or stuck The horn wire leading to the button is grounded |
| The sound signal does not work at all | The fuse has blown The wire or its connections are loose, damaged, or disconnected Internal horn malfunction |
| The sound signal will emit intermittent or unsatisfactory sounds | Loose wire connections |
| The lights don't turn on | The fuse has blown If the engine doesn't work, the battery is dead The filament has burned out or the bulb has broken Electrical connections are loose, disconnected, or damaged The switch is shorted or faulty |
| The light turns on but quickly fades | If the engine doesn't work, the battery is dead |
| The lighting gives off very little light | The headlight lenses are dirty The reflector is damaged or dirty The headlights are severely misaligned The lamp installed has too low a wattage The installed lamps are too old The electrical wiring cannot handle the current due to its weakness |
| The lighting is uneven - sometimes too strong, sometimes too weak, especially when there are jolts | Battery contacts or grounding are loose The headlights are not grounded properly The switches contacts are faulty |
| The windshield wiper motor does not work | The fuse has blown Electrical wiring contacts are loose, disconnected or damaged The brushes are badly worn The anchor is worn out or faulty The field windings are faulty |
| The windshield wiper motor is running very slowly and drawing excessive current | The switch is dirty, greased, or burnt out Drive is bent or not lubricated The spindles are bent or damaged Dry anchor bearings The anchor is badly worn or faulty |
| The windshield wiper motor operates slowly and consumes low current | The brushes are badly worn The switch is dirty, greased, or burnt out The anchor is badly worn or faulty |
| The windshield wiper motor works, but the arms are motionless | The transmission gear or spindle is worn or damaged The engine parts are badly worn out |
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