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Removal and installation Girling front disc brake pads (VW Passat B3)

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  • Removal and installation Girling front disc brake pads
            0


Contents: Removal ↓ Installation ↓

Removal



Loosen the wheel bolts, lift the car from the front, and remove the wheels.

Caution: If the brake pads are to be re-installed, their location must be marked before removal. Swapping the pads, for example, swapping the outer pad with the inner pad or moving the pad from the right wheel to the left wheel and vice versa, is not allowed. Changing the location of the pads may result in uneven braking action. It is recommended to use only genuine VW/AUDI brake pads. The front brake pads must be replaced as a set, even if only one pad has reached the wear limit.


Caution: If the brake pads are to be re-installed, their location must be marked before removal.…


Unscrew the lower bolt securing the caliper housing. Hold the guide pin with a wrench.

Unscrew the lower bolt securing the caliper housing. Hold the guide pin with a wrench.


Tilt the caliper body upward.



Remove the brake pads.

Installation



Caution: When the brake pads are removed, do not depress the brake pedal, otherwise the piston will be pushed out of the caliper body.

Clean the guide surfaces or lining areas of the pads with a suitable soft metal brush or wipe with a cloth soaked in alcohol. Do not use solutions containing mineral oils or tools with sharp edges.

Before installing the pads, examine the brake discs with your fingers to check for nicks. Discs with nicks can be ground down (workshop work), depending on whether it is thick enough and have. Always turn the disks on both sides and pay attention to whether there is enough reserve for wear after turning.

Measure the thickness of the brake discs, see below.

Check the dust caps for cracks. Replace damaged caps immediately, as penetrating dirt will quickly damage the caliper seal. In this case, the caliper must be removed and disassembled (workshop work).

Check the strength of the piston heat shield fastening.

Check the strength of the piston heat shield fastening.


Brake cylinder piston "2" is brought back into the cylinder using a return device. A hardwood rod can also be used for this purpose (with a hammer handle), however, special attention must be paid to ensuring that the piston is not skewed and that the piston surfaces and dust cap are not damaged.


Note: When installing the piston into the cylinder, the brake fluid from the brake cylinder is squeezed into the expansion tank. Monitor the fluid level in the tank and, if necessary, suck out excess fluid with a siphon.


For suction, use a bottle that was used to remove air from the hydraulic system, or a plastic bottle that has previously only come into contact with brake fluid. Do not use bottles intended for drinking liquids! Brake fluid is poisonous and should never be sucked out by mouth through a hose. After replacing the brake pads, the brake fluid level in the expansion tank should also not exceed the "MAX" mark, since the liquid expands when heated. Brake fluid leaking from the tank gets under the master brake cylinder, destroys the varnish coating and leads to corrosion.

Note: If the brake linings are heavily worn, check the ease of movement of the piston. To do this, insert a wooden block into the caliper and ask an assistant to slowly press the brake pedal. The brake cylinder piston should be easily pressed out and back in. During the check, another caliper should be installed in its place. Make sure that the piston is not pressed out completely. If the piston is difficult to move, the caliper must be repaired (workshop work).


Insert both brake pads into the brake shield. Make sure that the retaining springs are positioned equally upwards and parallel to the upper edge of the brake pads. Tilt the piston housing from below and screw it to the brake shield with a new self-locking bolt to a torque of 35 Nm. Hold the guide pin in place. Replace damaged protective caps of the guide pins (are included in the repair kit).

Please note: Each genuine brake pad repair kit comes with a new hex bolt for each caliper. These bolts must be used every time.


Tighten the wheel. Lower the car and tighten the wheel bolts crosswise to 110 Nm.

Caution: Press the brake pedal firmly several times until you feel a strong resistance. This will center the brake pads and position them according to the operating conditions.


Check the brake fluid level in the expansion tank and, if necessary, top up the tank to the "MAX" mark.

New brake pads should be carefully worked in by repeatedly braking the car from 80 km/h to 40 km/h by lightly pressing the brake pedal. Allow the brakes to cool between braking operations.

Caution: On a section of the road up to 200 km long, braking to a complete stop must not be undertaken.

This article is available at russian, bulgarian, belarusian, ukrainian, serbian, croatian, romanian, polish, slovak, hungarian
The text has been checked: Medvedeva Elena

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Previous articles
Girling Front Brake Caliper
Removal and installation front disc brake pads VW II
Front Brake Caliper VW II (vehicle models up to 9/93)
General information about the braking system
Next articles
Front brake caliper Ate/Teves (cars with engines of 150, 174 hp from 10/93)
Removal and installation front disc brake pads Ate/Teves
Girling Rear Brake Caliper
Removal and installation rear disc brake pads
Eliminating Disc Brake Squealing
Checking the thickness of brake discs


Similar articles from other manuals for VW cars:
Front Disc Brake Pads — Removal and Installation Golf 5 (2003-2008)
Front brakes with Girling/Lucas brake calipers Polo 3 (1995-2003)
Adjusting brake pads on two wheels Touareg 1 (2002-2006)
Removal and installation front brake pads FN 3 Tiguan 1 (2007-2015)
Checking the thickness of the front brake pads Sharan 1 (1995-2000)
Front disc brake pads (14-inch wheels) Transporter T4 (1990-2003)
Checking the thickness of disc brake pads Caddy 3 (2003-2010)
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