Faulty engine or gearbox mounts or loose mounting bolts. This means that when clutching, the drive mechanism begins to oscillate.
Burnt or hardened clutch linings on the driven disk, i.e. uniform friction between the clutch and the flywheel is impossible. This can happen if, for example, another vehicle was towing over a long distance.
The pressure plate has warped due to strong heat generation, i.e. the friction surface is no longer perfectly smooth.
In all these cases, the clutch and driven disc must be removed to find the source of the damage.
If the clutch system fails on the road or the clutch no longer engages or disengages, the journey can only be continued to the nearest workshop or to the nearest destination. It is even possible that the gearbox shifts up and down with a somewhat odd feeling. If the clutch fails while the vehicle is moving and the gear is engaged, disengage the gear, release the throttle, and place the shift lever in neutral. If the gear is engaged, it is necessary to give a small gas until the shift lever is released.
To start off without a clutch, proceed as follows.
Turn off the engine and engage first gear.
Turn on the starter. Your car will begin to move erratically and will continue to do so until the engine RPM matches the drive. If the engine is cold, then it must first be allowed to run for heating. so that he doesn't stop again.
If you start off on a flat road in second gear, you can continue driving in this way to the nearest repair shop.
If they want to try to shift into high gears, they begin, as described above, to move in first gear and accelerate the engine to approximately 1000 rpm. Slightly reduce the gas and move the gearshift lever to the neutral position. Now fully release the accelerator pedal and push the shift lever towards the second gear position. When the number of revolutions of the engine and gearbox is equal, the gear is engaged. If the intermediate shift time is too long, a little gas must be added again so that the gear can be engaged.
Engage top gears only at low speeds; for example, second gear at approximately 30 km/h, third gear at approximately 25 km/h, and fourth gear at 35 km/h.
It is hardly worth making the decision to shift to fifth gear.
When downshifting the gearbox, the engine speed must be increased to enable the next gear to be engaged. Take off the gas a little. disengage the gear and press the accelerator pedal, using their own sensations of what is happening. At the same time, press the gear lever to a lower gear. With the correct choice of speed, the gear is engaged without delay.
When downshifting, the vehicle speed must be braked appropriately to keep the shift under control. When synchronized, switching is effortless.
Flywheel
If the clutch was removed, then it is necessary to check the condition of the flywheel. Special checks are subject to the teeth of the ring gear. Since the ring gear cannot be replaced separately from the entire mechanism, the entire flywheel must be replaced if necessary.
In this case, it is replaced with a new ring gear of the speed sensor located behind the flywheel.
If the friction surface still looks good. then it should be processed with sandpaper. This removes small visible burnt spots.
Before screwing the flywheel back on, it is necessary to check it for runout. This is done using a measuring mechanism and a dial indicator device. With slow rotation of the flywheel, the pointer of the measuring mechanism should not deviate by more than 0.2 mm during movement. Otherwise, this flywheel should be replaced with a new one, since the curved friction surface has an adverse effect on the driven disk, and as a result, on the clutch.
When buying a new flywheel, be sure to specify the design of the engine, as different flywheels are installed in the clutch systems of different engines.
The flywheel bolts are tightened evenly with a tightening torque of 70 Nm, and then they are sequentially tightened by the next 90°, but without a torque wrench.
Visitor comments