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Sharan 1 (1995-2000)

Removal and installation the engine (VW Sharan 1)

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  • Sharan
  • Sharan 1
  • Petrol engines
  • Engine repair 2.8 l (AAA)
  • Removal and installation the engine
            0


The power unit consists of an engine and a gearbox. It is removed using a hydraulic lift or hoist, lowering it from the engine compartment.

Before removing the power unit, do the following:
  • if the car has an anti-theft system with a security code, you need to have the code with you to turn on the system after connecting the battery;
  • when removing the engine, you will need to disconnect a large number of electrical wires, as well as vacuum and coolant hoses. Before removing wires and hoses, label them with tags;
  • before carrying out installation work in the engine compartment, it is necessary to cover the front fenders of the car with thick fabric.

Remove the power unit in the following order:
  • turn off the engine and remove the key from the ignition;
  • disconnect the "-" terminal from the battery;

Attention! In order to avoid damage to the ECU, it is necessary to disconnect the battery terminals only when the ignition is off. Moreover, to completely turn off the ignition, it is necessary to wait at least 20 seconds and only then can you disconnect the "-" terminal from the battery.




Fig. 18. Removing the battery: 1 — air duct casing; 2 - partition



  • unscrew the screws (shown by arrows, Fig. 18) and remove the casing 1 of the air duct and the partition 2;
  • remove AB (see section 16.1);
  • drain the coolant from the cooling system (see section 19.1);



Fig. 19. Removing the battery cover

  • unscrew the screws (shown by arrows, Fig. 19), move aside and remove the battery cover together with the expansion tank of the cooling system;
  • remove the V-belt from the engine drive;
  • disconnect the air duct hose from the throttle body;
  • using a spark plug wrench, unscrew the spark plugs and stack them in the order of the cylinders. On a VR6 engine, the spark plug caps and the spark plugs themselves can only be removed using a special spark plug wrench numbered 3277A;



Fig. 20. Removing the center cover on the top of the intake manifold: 1, 3, 4 — high voltage wire guides; 2 - central cover



  • remove guides 1, 3 and 4 (Fig. 20) of high-voltage wires and remove central cover 2 of the upper part of the intake manifold;
  • remove the throttle cable together with its support by unscrewing the support and removing the end of the cable. Do not remove the clamp holding the throttle cable in the support (since in this case it will be necessary to adjust the tension of the throttle cable);



Fig. 26. Details of the upper part of the cylinder head: 1 - bolts (5 Nm); 2 - central cover (above the top of the intake manifold); 3 - bolts (25 Nm); 4 - Spark plug wire holders; 5 - throttle cable holder; 6 - rear left bracket of the upper part of the intake manifold; 7 - oil filler cap; 8 - sealing gasket; 9 - crankcase ventilation valve; 10 - ring in the cylinder head cover; 11 - nut (10 Nm); 12 - cylinder head cover; 13 - cylinder head cover sealing gasket; 14 - Fuel line holders; 15 - bolt (10 Nm); 16 - vacuum hose; 17 - sealing gasket of the upper part of the intake manifold; 18 - upper part of the intake manifold; 19 - Rear right bracket of the upper part of the intake manifold

  • disconnect the spring clamps of the fuel line holders 14 (Fig. 26) for supplying and discharging fuel;
  • mark the fuel lines and disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses from the fuel distributor;

Caution! Fuel lines are under pressure. Before disconnecting a fuel hose from its mount, grasp the fuel hose connection with a thick rag and, carefully pulling it from the mount, relieve pressure in the system.



  • disconnect the large 42-pin connector located near the ignition coil;
  • disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose;
  • disconnect the power steering line from the fitting at the engine. Unscrew the power steering pump together with the bracket and hang it on a wire to the body. Do not twist the hoses and make sure that the pump does not hang on the hose;



Fig. 100. Elements of the front part of the exhaust system: 1 - Engine thermal protection screen; 2 - two-piece exhaust manifold; 3 - lifting eye; 4 - nut, 40 Nm; 5 - Engine thermal protection screen; 6 - Engine thermal protection screen nut; 7 - gasket, for replacement; 8 - intake pipe; 9 - nut, 10 Nm; 10 - nipple for connecting the EGR system, 35 Nm

  • disconnect the inlet pipe 8 and the middle part of the exhaust system with the catalytic converter from the exhaust manifold 2 (fig. 100 and 101);



Fig. 101. Elements of the middle part of the exhaust system (located between the inlet pipe and the catalytic converter muffler): 1 - Thermal protection screen nut; 2 - thermal protection screen; 3 - direction to the first muffler; 4 - catalyst; 5 - protective clamp; 6 - Thermal protection screen; 7 — bolt, 10 Nm; 8 - protective clamp; 9 — bolt, 10 Nm; 10 — nut, 40 Nm; 11 — lambda probe; 12 - black plug connector



  • the VR6 engine has a secondary air supply system, the main parts of which are located near the radiator. To dismantle the engine, it is necessary to remove the casing with the fan and the secondary air pump motor (see subsection 5.2.2);
  • disconnect all coolant hoses, vacuum hoses, and engine ventilation hoses from the engine;
  • disconnect all electrical wires from the engine and gearbox. These include wires for the alternator, starter, hydraulic oil pressure switch, and various sensors. Most connections are made using plug-in connectors;
  • remove the generator;

if a manual transmission is installed:
  • disconnect the hose from the clutch slave cylinder;
  • remove the gear shift rod from the gearbox (see section 10.1);
  • remove both drive shafts from their mounts in the gearbox (see section 11.1);

in a car with an automatic transmission:
  • remove the mode selection lever rod;
  • remove both drive shafts from their mounts in the gearbox,
  • if your car is equipped with air conditioning, in addition to this section, you should definitely read the relevant recommendations;



Fig. 21. Engine support: 1 - bolts; 2 - lifting yoke; 3 - lift

  • support the engine from below. At the service station, a special device is used for this (Fig. 21), under which a car jack is then placed. In addition, you should insure yourself with a lift, which supports the engine from above by its hinges. If the car jack slips, then the engine in this case will be held by the lift;
  • remove the balance beam (pendulum) suspension. It is connected to the front support, so you should read the corresponding section to learn more about its fastening;



Fig. 22. Right engine mount: 1 - mounting bolts

  • unscrew bolts 1 (Fig. 22) securing the right engine mount support. Please note that different tightening torques are used to tighten the engine mount bolts and nuts;



Fig. 23. Disassembled engine mount on a vehicle with a manual transmission. Tightening torques for engine mount mounting bolts: 1 = 55 Nm; 2 = 110 Nm; 3 = 100 Nm; 4 = 20 Nm

  • unscrew the bolts securing the left engine mount support. The fastening of the left engine mount support (Fig. 23) depends on the type of gearbox installed. At this stage of the work, it is necessary to unscrew only bolts 1, the location of which is the same for all types of gearboxes;
  • with the help of an assistant, slowly lower the power unit from the engine compartment. Make sure that the engine does not damage the body.

The power unit is installed in the reverse order of removal, and do the following:
  • check the thickness of the clutch driven disk linings. If worn, replace the driven disk;
  • carefully insert the power unit into the engine compartment. Be careful not to damage the vehicle's parts and components;
  • when aligning the engine with the suspension mount fasteners, tighten the mount bolts by hand 5-6 turns. Rock the engine back and forth (it should not be energized);
  • finally tighten the powertrain suspension support mounting bolts to the following torques:
    • pos. 1 = 55 Nm; pos. 2 = 110 Nm; pos. 3 = 100 Nm; pos. 4 = 20 Nm (Fig. 23) — for an engine with a manual transmission;
    • pos. 1 = 55 Nm; pos. 2 = 60 Nm (Fig. 24) – right engine mount;
    • pos. 1 = 55 Nm; pos. 2 = 110 Nm; pos. 3 = 60 Nm (Fig. 25) — right engine mount on a vehicle with an automatic transmission;



Fig. 24. Right engine mount disassembled. Tightening torques for suspension support mounting bolts: 1 = 55 Nm; 2 = 60 Nm




Fig. 25. Disassembled right engine mount on a vehicle with an automatic transmission. Tightening torques for suspension support mounting bolts: 1 = 55 Nm; 2 = 110 Nm; 3 = 60 Nm

  • install balance beam (pendulum) suspension (see section 13);
  • install the drive shafts. Use a special wrench to tighten the hexagonal bolts to the specified tightening torque. The tightening torques are different for manual and automatic transmissions (see "Tightening Torque Table");
  • depending on the type of gearbox, install the rods and adjust the gear shift mechanism if necessary;
  • attach the hose to the clutch slave cylinder and secure it with a spring clamp (for manual transmission);
  • attach the inlet pipe with the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold. After aligning the muffler and outlet pipe, hang them on the suspension rings. Make sure they are installed correctly. The suspension rings should have uniform tension and should not be deformed;
  • install the power steering pump;
  • install the fan housing and secondary air pump motor;
  • install the engine accessory drive V-belt;
  • install the throttle cable and check its operation;
  • install the air intake hose and air filter;
  • install all previously disconnected electrical wires;
  • fill the cooling system with coolant with the heater valve open. Bring the coolant level in the expansion tank to the required level, tighten the expansion tank cap. Turn on the engine for a few minutes to release all air locks. Then check the coolant level in the expansion tank and add coolant if necessary;
  • remove air from the clutch release hydraulic drive by bleeding it with the obligatory participation of an assistant;
  • connect the battery and take a test drive. Check all hose connections for leaks;
  • enter the anti-theft system code (if it is installed on the car).

At the first opportunity, you should visit a service station to check the memory of the fault recorder of the self-diagnostic system.

This article is available at russian, bulgarian, belarusian, ukrainian, serbian, croatian, romanian, polish, slovak, hungarian
The text has been checked: Tarasov Ivan

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Previous articles
VR6 Engine — Design Description
Next articles
Removal and installation the gearbox from the engine
Additional operations on a car with air conditioning
Engine mount
General recommendations for engine disassembly and assembly
Removal the cylinder head
Disassembling the cylinder head


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Sharan 1 
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