After the engine has cooled down to some extent, you can drive continuously at medium speeds to the nearest workshop. In this case, you should watch the temperature reading or the warning light.
Idling and slow driving are dangerous for the engine, as there is hardly enough air flow through the radiator fins.
Note: In older cars, the radiator fan thermal switch often fails. Experience has shown that this switch should be replaced as a preventative measure when the car is 6-8 years old.
Troubleshooting
Remove both connectors or the dual connector from the thermal switch.
Place the contact tongues against each other or connect them with a piece of wire.
If the fan now starts working, it means that the thermal switch (thus excluded from the current circuit) has a malfunction.
To continue driving, connect the connectors from the switch using the so-called distribution plug, into which both connectors are inserted. Or the connecting wire should be securely fastened in the double plug.
To prevent freely hanging wires from causing a short circuit, they must be secured with adhesive tape.
If connecting the contacts of the thermal switch does not help, you need to check: maybe its fuse is broken?
If the fuses are OK, the fan motor is checked.
Remove the plug from the electric motor and instead connect the auxiliary wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the contact of the red or red-black wire.
The brown or brown-yellow wire contact is connected to the negative terminal of the battery.
If the fan still does not spin, the fan motor is faulty and should be replaced.
If the fan is running, you should check the plugs, as well as all connectors leading from the thermal switch and the electric fan.
You can drive if the radiator fan is powered directly from the battery and rotates constantly.
Note: If emergency switching has been carried out, one of the connections must be disconnected at the end of the journey, otherwise the fan motor will run until the battery is discharged.
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